Marc Jacobs’s collection for Louis Vuitton was a dazzling shot of adrenaline to the season. Just when it seemed an uneasy fashion world had given up on thrilling and collectively decided to “softball it for spring”, Marc Jacobs sent out a Louis Vuitton collection that in any season would have been great. But in contrast to what came before—forays into luxury, safe plays on classics—it was pulse-quickening. In this Paris fashion week, Jacobs continued what he’d started with his collection in New York: crazy fabric mash-ups, layers of references, and snugly sashed waists. Yet now these varied elements cohered into a more urban and highly designed collection, infused with an abundance of ideas and offering infinite wardrobe possibilities. Short, snappy skirts, sequins, and studded suede mixed with perky shouldered jackets—all topped off by a large number of tribal-inspired accessories. With an eye to Paris in the forties, Jacobs seemed to be advocating an entirely different, carpe-diem approach to general malaise: Throw caution to the wind, have fun getting dressed, and by all means, pile it on!
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